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Description
So here is where we're at with this..
Please forgive the battle rifle, I needed to see how mobile I was while holding a weapon! In the meantime I have a very nice Mattock kit on the way.
Currently I am still looking for a good cheap pair of boots to sacrifice for this project. Other than that the costume is finished build-wise. I was able to go back and build the elbows and hand plates. The initial painting is done. Weathering will be next. Then the lights. I have some very nice LED strips which I need to plan to install so that should be fun.
I thought I'd update the description to help answer some questions, most of these have already been explained in my other "In Progress" images.
* The entire suit is constructed from mostly gray EVA foam mats (the kind that interlock and are used as flooring), 1/4 in. black construction foam, 3mm black construction foam, and a few 3mm styrene pieces were used as shaping supports along curved edges (so I wouldn't have to heat form), and also clear plexiglas for the visor.
* I did not use a heat gun at all for the foam, any curves were achieved with styrene glued along the edges. However, a heat gun was used for the visor which was heated and worked over a curved foam "buck" that I made.
* Paints used - Plasti-Dip Spray, Black (used as sealant/primer - must be very generous with coating to get best finish! It will get expensive so spread your build out!), RustOleum *Metallic* Charcoal Gray, Liquitex Crimson Red and Titanium White acyclic paints for the stripes. VHT Niteshades to tint the clear visor.
* All parts where cut using a scroll saw (not by hand)
* Many MANY areas like the chest were formed by beveling edges of small parts and gluing together (not stacking/layering thick foam sections on top of each other) The interior bevel gaps were filled with tiny beveled 1/2 in. foam strips to provide reinforcement for the parts.
* Invest in a scroll saw
* Some shapes and panel lines were made by actually cutting the larger foam part where the lines are and re-gluing it together, then running the end of the hot-glue gun or wood burning tool along the seam to create an industrial welded effect. Don't be afraid to cut up a large part into smaller areas and re forming! It looks way better than if you try to cut those lines by hand afterward.
* Areas like the Ab section started as one piece then were cut and offset by half the foam's thickness and re-glued to give the illusion that it was layered. By keeping it thin and not layering the thick foam mats over one another you get more curvature and a clean silhouette. THIN TO WIN
* And please like my page [link]
Please forgive the battle rifle, I needed to see how mobile I was while holding a weapon! In the meantime I have a very nice Mattock kit on the way.
Currently I am still looking for a good cheap pair of boots to sacrifice for this project. Other than that the costume is finished build-wise. I was able to go back and build the elbows and hand plates. The initial painting is done. Weathering will be next. Then the lights. I have some very nice LED strips which I need to plan to install so that should be fun.
I thought I'd update the description to help answer some questions, most of these have already been explained in my other "In Progress" images.
* The entire suit is constructed from mostly gray EVA foam mats (the kind that interlock and are used as flooring), 1/4 in. black construction foam, 3mm black construction foam, and a few 3mm styrene pieces were used as shaping supports along curved edges (so I wouldn't have to heat form), and also clear plexiglas for the visor.
* I did not use a heat gun at all for the foam, any curves were achieved with styrene glued along the edges. However, a heat gun was used for the visor which was heated and worked over a curved foam "buck" that I made.
* Paints used - Plasti-Dip Spray, Black (used as sealant/primer - must be very generous with coating to get best finish! It will get expensive so spread your build out!), RustOleum *Metallic* Charcoal Gray, Liquitex Crimson Red and Titanium White acyclic paints for the stripes. VHT Niteshades to tint the clear visor.
* All parts where cut using a scroll saw (not by hand)
* Many MANY areas like the chest were formed by beveling edges of small parts and gluing together (not stacking/layering thick foam sections on top of each other) The interior bevel gaps were filled with tiny beveled 1/2 in. foam strips to provide reinforcement for the parts.
* Invest in a scroll saw
* Some shapes and panel lines were made by actually cutting the larger foam part where the lines are and re-gluing it together, then running the end of the hot-glue gun or wood burning tool along the seam to create an industrial welded effect. Don't be afraid to cut up a large part into smaller areas and re forming! It looks way better than if you try to cut those lines by hand afterward.
* Areas like the Ab section started as one piece then were cut and offset by half the foam's thickness and re-glued to give the illusion that it was layered. By keeping it thin and not layering the thick foam mats over one another you get more curvature and a clean silhouette. THIN TO WIN
* And please like my page [link]
Image size
2800x1080px 2.16 MB
© 2012 - 2024 hsholderiii
Comments197
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Man, That looks bad a$$!